SUPPLY LISTS:

a. Each student including myself will need a table and chair (two students could share a large

cafeteria type table). A few extra tables would be helpful for samples, storyboards, etc. An

electrical outlet will be necessary for each student, myself, and for 2 or 3 irons. There needs to be

adequate power as each iron could draw 1500 watts. Also, 2 or 3 irons and ironing boards will be

necessary for a class that size. (Irons should be sturdy, heavy, steam types, which do not

automatically shut off). A full-length mirror and garment rack for hanging samples will be needed

and an electric pencil sharpener. The room should be large enough for students to comfortably

move around. A sewing machine should be made available for any student who can’t bring one

to class due to travel restrictions.

b. Students should bring:

• A CARDBOARD CUTTING BOARD WITH PRINTED GRID IF POSSIBLE (IT REALLY

HELPS)

• A SMALL ROTARY CUTTING BOARD AND ROTARY CUTTER (OPTIONAL)

• 2 OR 3 GOOD QUALITY COLORED PENCILS (eg. Sanford Prismacolor)

• PUSH PINS

• SEE-THRU STRAIGHT EDGE RULER

• TAPE MEASURE

• PORTABLE SEWING MACHINE PREFERABLY WITH INSTRUCTION MANUAL, EXTRA

NEEDLES, AND BOBBINS. TRY TO BECOME FAMILIAR WITH ITS OPERATION AND OIL

IT IF YOU HAVEN'T IN A LONG TIME!

• EXTENSION CORD AND POWER STRIP

• 6" SEAM GAUGE (THE KIND WITH THE SLIDING MARKER)

• THREAD TO MATCH YOUR FABRIC (use long staple polyester thread like Gutterman)

• CONTRASTING THREAD FOR TAILOR’S TACKS

• BALL HEADED QUILTERS PINS

• GOOD SCISSORS OR DRESSMAKERS SHEARS (my favorite is Gingher Lightweights G-8F)

• EMBROIDERY SCISSORS (eg. Gingher 4”)

• HAND SEWING NEEDLES AND THIMBLE IF YOU USE ONE

• CAKE OF BEESWAX

• NOTEBOOK AND PEN (a highlighter is helpful too)

• PRESS CLOTH (OLD MEN’S HANDKERCHIEF WORKS GREAT)

• 1 YD. of LINING FABRIC (45” wide) for pocket lining and seam finishing. Pick something fun

that will show off those fabulously finished seams. Most lining fabric will do, silk, rayon,

acetate, cotton, polyester, whatever you can find. Try to pick something crisp, instead of

slippery.

• A HANGER for the finished garment!

FABRIC REQUIREMENTS:

Participants will be constructing a simple unstructured jacket from their own handwoven fabric

during the three day workshop. Fabrics should have a consistent beat, a firm but drapeable hand

and should be suitable for garment construction. Since the finished garment will be a jacket,

participants should choose a medium weight, close sett, firm fabric in a fiber content suitable for

an unlined jacket. WHEN CHOOSING YOUR SETT, ALWAYS CHOOSE DENSER FOR

GARMENT FABRICS. MOST STUDENTS BRING IN FABRICS THAT ARE TOO LOOSELY

SETT FOR AN IDEAL GARMENT. THEY CAN BE USED, BUT THE END RESULT ISN’T

OPTIMAL.

Please do not try intricate patterning, obvious even or uneven plaids, large floats, or

weaves that tend to fray excessively. Keep it simple, it’s not about the fabric. Avoid heavy

slubs that may jam in the sewing machine. Do not weave something heavier than your sewing

machine can handle comfortably. The fewer difficulties you encounter when working with your

fabric, the better the chance you will complete your jacket.

Fabric should be approximately 6 yards x 24” wide or 4 yards X 36” wide AFTER WASHING.

Remember fabric can shrink as much as 35% when washed so in order to ensure everyone will

have enough fabric for their jacket, samples, mistakes, swatches, etc., use the above guidelines

as minimums. I would rather have leftover fabric than not enough. (Besides, there are lots of

things to do with leftover scraps, but that’s another class.)

Weft ends should be tucked back in at the selvedges and trimmed close. Do not leave long tails

of threads hanging out or overlap ends in the web of fabric.

Finishing is important. ALL FABRICS MUST BE WASHED PRIOR TO CLASS! No fabric

should be sewn into a garment until it has been properly finished. Please machine wash your

completed fabric on GENTLE CYCLE for 3 minutes in COLD WATER using a laundry detergent.

This is important for removing excess yarn dyes and finishes. This is even suitable for wool and

mohair. Fabric must be hung to dry, but do not pin to a clothesline. You will stretch out one

edge, making it impossible to use your selvedges. I prefer to drape fabric through large plastic

hangers and pin the hangers to the clothesline. When fabric is completely dry, it should be steam

pressed. You could even have the dry cleaner press it if your iron is not that good. Fabric should

then be rolled onto a cardboard tube or PVC pipe so it stays smooth and wrinkle free.

Incidentally, you may want to overcast the edges to prevent excess fraying of the fabric prior to

washing. I usually don’t as I find if I leave an inch of unwoven warp ends at either end of the

yardage the weft rarely comes out more than 1/2” in the wash.

If you are unsure of your sewing or weaving skills or you do not have the time to finish your fabric,

you may purchase a commercial fabric. Choose something similar to a handwoven such as a

medium weight wool or rayon novelty fabric or a tweed. (NO PLAIDS, KNITS, OR NAPPED

FABRICS PLEASE).

MATERIALS FEE: $25.00 INCLUDES SHOULDER PADS, TWILL TAPE, INTERFACING,

PATTERN PAPER AND HANDOUT